Category Archives: oysters

The Return of Old Buck

Locally, the tradition of celebrating Old Christmas continues. A throwback from the Julian Calendar, it’s ongoing today. When the Gregorian Calendar was put into effect sometime in the 18th century, folks here were late to change. In the isolated village of Chicamacomico, they kept Christmas celebration at the old date. Nowadays this community must be one of very few in the country celebrating Christmas twice. 

Going for a couple hundred years, Old Christmas has morphed into what it is today, most recently this past January 10th. My favorite part is feasting on roasted oysters and waiting for the arrival of Old Buck, the legendary steer that comes out of Trent Woods to join celebrants.

There are plenty of oysters. These were roasted in the same homemade cooker as mentioned in my previous post.

The community skatepark was as popular as ever!

The weather was great. Lots of people were outside for oysters and others indoors for chicken and pastry.

Oyster shucking is an art unto itself, requiring care and concentration.

Owen O’Neal arrives with Old Buck. Caretaking of the symbolic creature has been passed down for generations through family members or relatives.

Old Buck is led into the community building greeted by excited revelers. At times it seems chaotic.

I had to watch myself as Old Buck got a bit rambunctious.

It’s good luck to touch Old Buck. Before you know it, he’s out the door and gone another year!

This year, Old Buck’s appearance was expedited by his handlers. Thanks to Owen O’Neal, Willy Smith and Andrew Midgett.

The Art of Roasting

As autumn transcends to winter, folks here think about oysters. Community oyster roasts are as popular as ever. It seems there’s always one happening somewhere nearby. They are usually fundraisers for nonprofits. 

This year in Rodanthe the 4th annual Shuck Hatteras was celebrated December 20th to benefit Chicamacomico Banks Fire and Rescue. Lots of people pitched in to help prepare and serve wild caught oysters from Swan Quarter.

They started with 75 bushels.

Owen O’Neal began cleaning them with a power washer.

Ronnie and Tyler Jarvis worked fire pits, made from stacked cinder blocks and sheet metal shelves to spread out the oysters. Wet towels hold in the heat, to steam them nicely.

With a couple hundred indulging people waiting, roasting is closely monitored and quickly moved to the tables.

A homemade barbecue oven does a great job. Here Eric Anglin and Ronnie unload a heavy sheet pan for delivery to some hungry connoisseurs.

Like all community roasts, it’s a feeding frenzy that brings people together for a great time.

Until next time… Bon Appétit!

 

Tongers of Tilghman Island

I’ve been reviewing lots of photographs from decades ago. Many are all but forgotten and bring back memories, like images I took when working out of Tilghman Island, Maryland.

While crewing aboard the dredging Virginia W, there were times when large portions of Chesapeake Bay froze, leaving the fleet of sailing skipjacks tied up at the dock.

Hand tongers however could reach areas still free of ice to get their harvest. Less efficient in catching oysters, it’s environmentally more friendly to benthic marine life on the bottom.

The shafts on hand tongs can reach lengths of 20 feet or more.

Tongers load the culling board while another crew member saves the good oysters and dumps the detritus overboard.

A more efficient way to use tongs is hydraulically. Called patent tongs, they’re much larger and mechanically harvest more than hand tongs. At the same time, this method can be more destructive to organisms on the bottom.

Working with hand tongs is brutally physical. Imagine the workout you’d have at the end of a day. These watermen worked from a classic Chesapeake Bay dead-rise boat, Mina Conway. For them it was just another day at the office!

‘Tis the Season

Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s are huge celebrations. On Hatteras Island it’s also when my craving for oysters kicks in. It seems the colder the water, the better they taste. I’ve enjoyed collecting them for years. There’s nothing like sharing them with folks. It’s not only culinary but also a social experience.

Last year a festival initiated as Shuck Hatteras was held December 17th. It was such a success that the 2nd annual took place this year on the 16th.

The heartbeat of the show is volunteers roasting oysters.

Cooking them over a bed of hot coals is a tradition.

They were delivered piping hot to awaiting shuckers.

A total of 60 bushels was harvested from “across the sound”.

Estimates had the crowd at a thousand.

Everyone seemed to have a great time.

Spent shell was collected, saved and recycled.

That evening, Shuck Hatteras featured several local bands, including the Carolina Sweaters.

Shuck Hatteras gets a big thumbs up for bringing us together while giving profits back to the community. Ya’ll come back!

Old Christmas 2021

Where I live, the celebration of Old Christmas has been a certainty every new year. I’ve heard that it’s been going on for over a hundred years, and probably longer. This year it would have been on January 2nd, except for the pandemic. It was cancelled for the first time ever.  

The festivities normally take place from the afternoon and into the night. I have to admit my favorite part of it, other than the appearance of Old Buck, is the oyster roast.

This year to compensate, I collected a bucket of oysters from Pamlico Sound and had them on my front porch. I gave some away and ate the rest.

I shucked a panful for the oven.

The flavor of a chilled, raw Pamlico Sound oyster is unsurpassed.

I missed sharing them with my friends, like this feast from 2009.

I also missed greeting Old Buck.

The next day I went to an empty community building where Old Christmas would have been celebrated. It was stark with nothing to clean up after what would have been a night of revelry.

I visited a monument nearby dedicated to our working watermen and thought about my friends that have lost their lives to the sea.

Eddie O’Neal, Dennis Midgett, Ed Corley, Russ Privott and Mike Midgett came to mind.