After a long day of provisioning and refueling, we left Puerto Madero the evening of May 19. With dozens of fishing boats offshore, we were vigilant . The Gulf of Tehuantepec, known for unexpected gales or Tehuano, lay ahead. At night the open ocean seemed mysterious, while we motor sailed into into a 20 knot breeze with choppy seas.

Transiting Tehuantepec, where some Pacific hurricanes originate, went without a hitch. Three days later we docked at Acapulco Yacht Club for more supplies, fuel and fun. The crew of Escapade joined us again for a night out celebrating a birthday for Lee, their cook.

Next day we explored Acapulco. High-rise hotels lined the ocean-front, while just a few blocks inland was utter poverty.

After two days we set out for Cabo San Lucas, about 4 days away.

Seas were calm at first, with a 6 knot breeze on the nose. Two days later it’s 24 knots head on, uncomfortable and wet. We began tacking with Cabo 200 miles off.

The morning of June 1 we anchored alongside Escapade at Land’s End on the tip of Baja.  It was uniquely beautiful.

Escapade was stunning against the limestone outcrop.

A view from the the cliff put Challenge’s pleasing lines on display.

Timing between incoming swells, we rode the Zodiac through the famous Arch, not once but twice.

First mate Billy snorkeled down and came up with lunch.

Lovers Beach at Land’s End was a bit isolated from most of the Cabo crowds.

We wined, dined, and dealt with repairing a tear in the mainsail.

The sights and sounds of Cabo were there to be enjoyed.

The big salty oysters weren’t bad either.

Doubtless, this Cabo hillside doesn’t look the same today, as it did in ’87. After 5 days we said goodbye and the voyage continued. For our last leg, the final destination was still a thousand miles away.

Continuing northward with diminishing wind, we motored toward Golfito, Costa Rica’s southernmost port. During my 4 AM watch I could see to starboard, the shadow of a mountainous coast. Rounding Punta Burica we entered Gulfo Dulce. It was steamy with clouds hovering over a lush, remote Osa Peninsula.

The Osa sticks out into the Pacific. A third of it is Corcovado National Park, the largest, most biodiverse natural area in the country. Years later, curiosity would take me there.

A channel marker stood at the entrance to Golfito Bay, a port developed by United Fruit Company in 1937 for the export of bananas. At the time, the region was a primeval wilderness with few inhabitants. As United Fruit thrived, so did Golfito.

By 1984 United Fruit Company abandoned Golfito due to an economic shift to palm oil production, among other things. Challenge was anchored so we could register with the Aduana, customs office.

With a jungle backdrop, waterfront dwellings were a stark contrast.

Natural beauty surrounds the bay.

The water was 90°.

Dugout canoes crafted from single logs have probably been used here for centuries and are still commonplace.

This family may have been heading to town for school or supplies. Most locals don’t have cars.

Downtown Golfito had not changed at all since my first visit in 1983.

We pulled anchor and motored to Playa Pavones to visit expatriate friend Malcolm Miles. I was first introduced to him 4 years prior as he was raising a family at Playa Zancudo. Later he built an isolated  homestead well beyond Punta Banco, until finally settling on a large chunk of land at Pavones. His life as an expat has surely been interesting.

We brought Malcolm aboard to share some stories, mahi-mahi and go for a surf.

Before departing we had two more stops to make. One to get our exit visas stamped, then to visit legendary expat, Tom Claremont.

We got 15 pounds of large shrimp from a fishing trawler and visited the man known as Captain Tom. He lived on an isolated hill near the entrance to Golfito Bay with his second wife and their kids. As a young United States Marine he lost his right leg in the Battle of Iwo Jima during WW ll. Once back in the states he bought an ex-Navy sub chaser and sailed it to Costa Rica. In 1954 it broke down and he beached it nearby where he built his home. He seemed very happy and I envied his determination and lifestyle. We had quite a shrimp feast!

That night we slept on the deck of Challenge as a cool tropical breeze blanketed us. Our next landfall would be Puerto Madero, Mexico 4 days away.