Category Archives: Sea

Front Row Seat

In 2002 while touring with a group of educators along Hatteras Island, renown coastal geologist Stan Riggs mentioned the annual erosion rate along North Rodanthe at 14 to 16 feet. Living on the edge, I’d seen it happening, especially after a groin was built at Oregon Inlet in 1989. More recently the issue has gotten lots of publicity and we’ve become a poster child for beach erosion.

My last blog entry addressed a certain row of houses collapsing into the surf. It’s a predictable yet sad spectacle. When the house called Front Row Seat went down on September 24th, I photographed what was left. Formerly known as Fric, the mess it left was in retrospect, avoidable. Dare County should have never issued the building permit in the first place.

Other rental beach houses fall (pun intended) into the same category. The pink and aqua-green McMansions on the left were built in 2007 and permits issued after objections to them being constructed. I took this photo in 2012. Now a decade later they’re closer to the brink.

On this ever-changing barrier island, the ocean isn’t the culprit!

Fric and Frac

In 1998 a man with 2 oceanfront lots on the north end of Rodanthe had an idea to build two fairly similar cottages side by side, one called Fric and the other Frac. When he applied for his permits, building inspector Elvin Hooper denied them because the plans didn’t meet legal setback rules from the last line of vegetation. As a result the applicant appealed to the planning director and county commissioners. Despite the shore’s high erosion rate, they granted him a variance and instructed Elvin to issue the permits.

This photo was taken a year later as Hurricane Dennis spun offshore and wreaked havoc on north Rodanthe. As a result several structures went down, but Fric and Frac somehow survived its first year. 

Now 25 years later, attempts to protect the oceanfront continue to be futile.

The two houses in the foreground are the latest to go down, strewn all over the place.

The houses formerly known as Fric and Frac are standing dubiously as other houses nearby are also condemned. They may be next to litter our once pristine seashore.

Incoming Tide

Summer season has peaked and there’s plenty of activity on Hatteras Island. It seems our beaches are being enjoyed by more visitors than ever.

Looking north from the deck of the Rodanthe Pier recently, I noticed a distinct line drawn in the sand from a high tide. Beachgoers almost seemed defiant, setting up right next to it. Occasionally a wave would wash a bit higher, causing  groups to retreat.

With more oceanfront cottages collapsing into the sea lately, I saw some symbolism here. The south view from the pier illustrates a more serious issue. I can understand folk’s desire for a castle in the sand, but get too close and eventually there’s hell to pay.

Out of Order

Since being constructed in the sixties, Rodanthe Pier has long been a vantage point during  storms. This image dates back to the Fall of 1999. After a series of poundings from the ocean, including Hurricane Dennis, much of the pier had collapsed. The pier house was completely destroyed. These gentlemen weren’t locals, but may have fished there at times.    

I don’t think pay phones exist around here any more and this particular one may have been one of the last vestiges of that technology. Needless to say, the pier was closed and the phone didn’t work. I can only imagine the many folks that used this telephone. Surfers called their buddies if the waves were good, or teenage girls huddled around it talking to friends.

Remnants of the original pier house was strewn all over the beach. Bobby and Dickie Ferrell had built it with cypress from their Currituck sawmill. The weathered siding was still beautiful. I salvaged many of those boards and saved them for projects around my house.

Much shorter than it used to be, that old pier has been rebuilt and repaired constantly. Not only has it been a fishing experience but a social one as well. Its battle with the sea continues.

Last Leg (Part 7 of 7)

Tropical climates were the norm, but Cabo was a defining departure from that. Days and nights were getting cooler heading north with sailing conditions  less than ideal. Winds were picking up, but generally head on. 

After 5 days in Cabo we started out in seemingly mild conditions until rounding Lands End, directly into a 35 knot breeze. Challenge was wet and rolling. Clear nights were spectacularly speckled with stars. Rounding Punta Tosca at night, spinner dolphins breached all around the boat. In darkness they were mostly heard rather than seen.

Motor-sailing into the weather continued.

Next night on a 0100 watch, I savored a shooting star streaking over the lighthouse at Cabo San Lázaro. It was a good sign. Kelp beds were appearing, as the environment became more temperate. We’d gone 120 miles since leaving Cabo San Lucas 2 days prior. I began thinking about home, my family and friends until retiring at 0200, dozing off.  

Later that day, I got up for an 1800 hour watch, climbed out the companionway to see Billy at the helm, smiling, no motor, reefed down, heeled over 45° and making 7 ½ knots to windward.

Spray flew over the bow in 6 foot seas. Sheets of water flooded the leeward deck. It was exhilarating and so far the best sailing of the trip. Challenge was made for this! By the time I took the helm it was blowing 25 knots and we were making nearly 8 knots.

Jack was loving it!

As long as a point of land gave us a lee, sailing was favorable.

Billy made adjustments to the main.

Trent relieved me at 2000 hrs as the moon rose, brightening the sky. 6 to 8 foot seas, heeled over and I was lying in the cockpit standing up. It was invigorating. 

Topside I shot with my waterproof Nikonos camera.

North of Isla Asunción, the Baja coastline began taking on a remote, primeval landscape. 

Captain Trent did a great job navigating the coast.

We stayed clear of Punta San Pablo.

Next stop was Bahía Tortugas and the abalone fishing village of San Bartelemé.

The isolated little town seemed nicely situated, nestled within Turtle Bay.

I couldn’t help but interact with some friendly young locals.

Before departing San Bartelemé, Escapade’s crew came aboard for a meal of lobster, steak and tuna. From the galley of Escapade, Lee brought homemade rolls and apple crisp. We continued on…

and spent two more days at sea.

June 13 we arrived in San Diego, along with Escapade to clear US Customs.

An America’s Cup boat was tied up at San Diego Yacht Club. Neil Young’s hundred foot schooner Ragland, was docked in front of it.

June 15, after 6 weeks and over 3,000 miles, Challenge was berthed at Newport, California.

We bid farewell to Lee and our friends on Escapade, still headed for Seattle. It had been an amazing trip with them.

John McVie greeted us and was grateful, reunited with Challenge. It was nice to meet him, and rewarding to take part in such a memorable trip.

left to right: Trent, John, Billy and Jacque

These last 7 blog posts were taken from photos and journal entries made in 1987.