Category Archives: Sea

Leaving Panama (part 3 of 7)

 

With a 20 knot breeze we exited Balboa into the Gulf of Panama. The ocean teeming with life, we began trolling and soon caught and released 3 bonita. Two big dolphin fish were also hooked and saved.

Early next morning rounding Punta Mala, we were 10 miles off the northwest coast of Panama. Near the island of Coiba we encountered cruising friends enjoying an anchorage, aboard the ketch Galatea. That’s where the fishing got better. We were joined by curious schools of porpoise and pelagic seabirds.

A blue footed booby was checking our fishing lure.

There’s nothing like catching a nice yellow fin tuna!

The ocean alive and entertaining, crew member Jack Burr enjoyed his “front row seat”.

Trent hauls in another mahi-mahi. They were plentiful and appreciated.

It was especially exciting to hook a marlin. On for 30 minutes, the line finally snapped.

With another bull dolphin on board, it was time to pull in the lines.

Offshore in the tropics, the best way to cool off is with a bucket of sea water.

Still 2 days away, our next landfall would be a familiar place, the old banana port of Golfito, Costa Rica.

 

 

The Canal (part 2 of 7)

On May 4, 1904, the United States took control of the property that would become the Panama Canal. Exactly 83 years later I found myself on a spontaneous flight to Panama, joining Trent Palmer and crew of Challenge. The sloop was anchored in Colón on the Atlantic side and destined for California. The next morning we began our journey through Panama Canal.

Entering the canal zone, our pilot came on board to direct us along the way.

Approaching Gatun Locks, we saw two large ships ahead of us. One had already entered the first chamber while another waited in line.

When it was our turn. I was struck by the chamber’s size and amount of water needed to fill it.

Four sailboats rafted up behind us and we were all bridled to counter turbulent rising water.

The water source comes from manmade Gatun Lake, a result of dams at the Chagres River. The lake stores more than enough to operate the locks and is recharged by surrounding rain forest. They never run out of water.

With the chamber filled, gates open to allow entry to the next step.

After going through 3 chambers at Gatun Locks, the last gate opened and we entered Gatun Lake, 85 feet above sea level.  While we exited, a large vessel waited to enter, heading in the opposite direction.

Once out on the lake, canal pilot Jim Wood took us to a shortcut, saving considerable time.

The shoreline along the lake is dense jungle that once overlooked a lush valley.

Perched on the bow of Challenge, first mate Billy Burr took in the scenery. Transiting Gatun took about 3 hours. Then arriving at Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks respectively, we descended into the Port of Balboa on the Pacific side. It totaled 8 hours for us to get from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Challenge was moored at Balboa a few days while we gathered provisions.

Getting underway May 9th, we motored toward the Pacific under the Bridge of the Americas.

 

 

Larry

There are 3 kinds of hurricanes, good, bad and somewhere in between. The good ones stay far offshore as did Hurricane Larry most recently. As a beachcomber, I have always loved watching the power and beauty of waves. That fascination has been a constant subject for my photography since beginning life on Hatteras nearly 50 years ago.

Traveling from several hundred miles away, Larry’s waves arrived as a south swell, with a hefty current sweeping northward. Most of the surfers left the island for points north where conditions were smaller and more approachable.

I hadn’t worked a beachscape in a few years, and felt I was in the company of an old friend. It was just me, my camera and Larry’s pulse.

The outside bars were breaking nicely.

The inside bars were hard and hollow.

I was entertained by an occasional wave rolling back into an oncoming one.

Larry put on a show and was good to stay well off the coast.

Crossing the Bar

December of 1985 I went on a three day fishing trip with Captain Terry Saunders aboard the 80 foot trawler, Richard Wayne. Based in Wanchese, he was going offshore, dragging for winter flounder. For two days, productivity was moderate with calm seas.

That night, lying in a forepeak bunk I felt changes in the tempo of the waves. By early morning the wind had freshened from the northeast making for some choppy conditions.

Stevie Daniels’ Bailey Boy fished nearby.

The captains discussed navigating the narrow shoaling channel at Oregon Inlet before conditions deteriorated further.

They decided to cut the trip short, head back and not take unnecessary chances, crossing the shallow bar into the inlet. I shot Bailey Boy heading over the shoal as it followed us home.

Over and Over

The storm that recently shut down highway 12 reminded me of the fragility of the place where I’ve lived most my life. The road was closed about 4 days until highway crews could clear  accummulated sand, allowing traffic to once again, exit or enter the island. Many do this cautiously, maneuvering through corrosive sea water. I’ve been watching and photographing this for years, over and over again.

When I first settled on Hatteras Island in the early 70’s, it seemed idyllic. I loved combing the beaches and riding the waves. Gradually I began noticing the dynamic nature of a barrier island. I saw how wind and water combine to move sand, sometimes lots of it.

The blizzard of March 1980 brought a hundred mile an hour northeaster exploding with a foot of snow. My Rodanthe house at the time, was surrounded by sea water barreling through the dunes and raging down highway 12. Even to this day, I’ve never seen anything quite like it.

Later I was to experience more storms significantly impacting the island. A good example is just north of Rodanthe where the main road takes a few bends. That’s where the pavement has been moved a number of times due to encroaching seas. A vegetated dune line helped protect the area, but not for long.

In 1984 Hurricane Josephine completely removed the dune line at the S-Turn. My surfing buddy Robin Gerald and I were in awe of nature’s power.

The road there began closing more and more often.

One vehicle after another became trapped in slurries of sand and sea water.

North Carolina Department of Transportation has tried in vain to keep traveling corridors open even in the harshest conditions.

A storm in March of 1989 created a breach at the north end of Buxton as volunteers worked desperately to force the ocean back with sand bags. It didn’t work well for long.

The Halloween Storm of 1991 was another hallmark. This lot in Rodanthe was as oceanfront as property can get. Any takers?

Spring of 1992 brought more woes for highway 12 on Pea Island and sandbagging was once again implemented as a short term solution.

1999 was a banner year for destructive storms as Hurricane Dennis spun offshore for several days, resulting in a number of demolished homes on the oceanfront. Over the years, I’ve seen dozens of them succumb to the sea.

At the same time, a long stretch of road north of Buxton was completely taken out, pavement and all.

Dennis racked up additional casualties at the S-Turn.

Since that time, I’ve seen average water levels in the Pamlico Sound behind my home increase from knee deep then, to waist deep today. That doesn’t bode well for attempts at controlling future onslaughts to the island.

Today the Rodanthe skyline consists of huge cranes building a multimillion dollar remedy to a problem that never seems to end.

Man is not master of this domain, but is more like a slave to it.